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The Diamond Quality Pyramid is a framework
to help you compare diamonds. While all diamonds are precious,
those closest to the top of the pyramid -- possessing the
best combination of cut, clarity, carat weight and color --
are the earth's rarest, most valuable and most beautiful to
the eye. This diamond education page is a good introduction
to understanding diamonds. If you have the basic understanding
of the diamond qualities you will be able to make an educated
purchase.
CARAT WEIGHT
The Larger a Diamond, the Rarer it is. Larger diamonds are
found relatively infrequently in nature, which places them
at the most rare level of the Diamond Quality Pyramid. What
also makes a bigger diamond so desirable is that it shows
off a stone's fine color and cut, and therefore its brilliance,
to its best advantage. Carat is actually a measurement of
weight, NOT size. However, it should be relative to size.
A diamond's size is measured in carat weight, and each carat
is equal to 200 milligrams and is divided into 100 points.
A .75 carat diamond is the same as a 75-point diamond or
a 3/4 carat stone. While larger diamonds are highly prized,
diamonds of equal size may vary widely in value and brilliance,
depending on their qualities of clarity, cut, and color.
Two diamonds of equal quality can have vastly different
values depending on their cut, color and clarity. Carat
weight is the easiest of the four C's to determine, however
the diamond MUST be loose. Too many jewelers approximate
carat weight, for instance, when you buy a 1/2 carat diamond,
which you assume to be 50 points, you may actually be getting
less than that. Many stores sell as low as 45 points, and
represent it as "approximately" a 1/2 carat. There
is nothing wrong with buying a "light" 1/2 carat,
however the cost is significantly less. You should know
that is what you are buying, and pay accordingly.
CUT
This is one of the most important of all characteristics,
and among the hardest to judge. All other factors being
equal, a poorly cut diamond can be worth less than half
the value of a well “made” stone. The proportions
of a stone as well as its polish and precision of faceting
determine how much of the diamond’s potential fire
and beauty may be released.
By cut, we are referring to two things, the first being
the shape of the diamond. By this we mean round, marquise,
pear, oval, princess, emerald, oval, heart or trillion.
When a gemologist talks about cut, what is really being
referred to is quality of proportions. The fact is many
diamonds today are not cut as well as they could be. Many
cutters choose to sacrifice some of the diamond's beauty
to achieve a stone that is a larger carat weight. Cut, more
than any other quality aspect, gives the diamond its sparkle.
A diamond gets its brilliance and scintillation by cutting
and polishing the diamond facets to allow the maximum amount
of light that enters through its top to be reflected and
dispersed back, also through its top. As you can see below,
when all the angles are correct, the light that enters is
dispersed back through the diamonds top facets. When a stone
is cut too shallow or too deep, that light that enters through
the top is allowed to escape through the bottom and does
not allow the maximum beauty of the diamond to be realized.
The reason these poorly cut diamonds are sold in stores
is cost. The wholesale cost of these diamonds are significantly
cheaper than a well proportioned diamond. Remember, just
because two diamonds have the same weight, does not mean
they are the same size.
COLOR
Diamonds come naturally in almost every color of the rainbow,
however most people are concerned with diamonds in the white
range. Along with cut, this "C" is also very important
in determining the overall beauty of the diamond. A diamond’s
color is graded on an alphabetical scale from D-Z to describe
how much or how little color a diamond possesses. With very
few exceptions, diamonds that are graded as colorless are
considered to be the most valuable. Truly colorless stones,
graded D, are extremely rare and very valuable.
D-F: Colorless, perfect or almost perfect color.
G-J: Near colorless, good to very good color. This diamond
may “face up” colorless when mounted.
K-M: Light but noticeable yellow or brown tint. May “face
up” near colorless when mounted, especially when mounted
in yellow gold. While many diamonds appear colorless, or
white, they may actually have subtle yellow or brown tones
that can be detected when comparing diamonds side by side.
Diamonds were formed under intense heat and pressure, and
traces of other elements may have been incorporated into
their atomic structure accounting for the variances in color.
A single change in color grade can significantly affect
a diamond’s value. Although the presence of color
makes a diamond less rare and valuable, some diamonds come
out of the ground in vivid "fancy" colors--well-defined
reds, blues, pinks, greens, and bright yellows. These are
highly prized and extremely rare.
It is the lack of color, or whiteness in a diamond that
allows the light to pass effortlessly through the stone
and disperse that beauty back to the observer. Color is
not white versus yellow, as the chart tends to indicate,
it is lighter versus darker. A white diamond will look very
clean, crisp, and brilliant, with a lot of pizzazz. A yellow
diamond will not really look yellow, as it will look darker
and dirty, without nearly the same brilliance. These are
differences that you can clearly see, as you do not need
to be a gemologist to see these differences.
CLARITY
The Purer a Diamond, the More Brilliant The greater a diamond's
clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is --
and the higher it is on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.
Clarity refers to how many flaws, or inclusions, are in
the diamond. In most cases, clarity has very little to do
with the beauty of the diamonds, rather it effects how the
diamond looks under the microscope. To determine a diamonds
clarity grade, it must be examined loose, under 10x magnification
by a gemologist. Whatever minute inclusions there may be
makes every diamond unique. These are nature's birthmarks,
and they may look like tiny crystals, clouds, or feathers,
and in most cases do not mar the diamond's beauty nor endanger
in durability. Without high magnification, these flaws are
invisible. However, the fewer inclusions, the more rare
your diamond will be. Diamonds categorized as internally
flawless reveal no such inclusions. Flawless stones are
at the peak of the Diamond Quality Pyramid and are treasured
for their rarity and beauty. Diamonds with very, very small
inclusions are graded as VVS1 or VVS2. The larger the inclusion,
the lower the grade and the less rare the diamond. Inclusions
that can be seen with the naked eye are graded I1 or I3.
The number, color, type, size and position of surface and
internal birthmarks affect a diamond's value. Major inclusions
can interfere with the path of light that travels through
a diamond, diminishing its brilliance and sparkle and therefore
its value.
The fewer and smaller the inclusions, the more rare and
valuable the diamond. Less than 1% of all diamonds ever
found has had no inclusions and can be called internally
flawless (IF).
The following are abbreviations for terms that are used
world wide to describe the clarity of a diamond:
IF,VVS1,VVS2: Internally flawless or near flawless. Impossible
to extremely difficult to find any inclusions, even under
10x magnification. IF is Internally Flawless, and VVS1 and
VVS2 are “Very, very slightly included”.
VS1,VS2: 100% clean to the naked eye, and moderately difficult
to very difficult to find inclusions with 10x magnification.
VS1 and VS2 are “Very slightly included”.
SI1, SI2, SI3: Should be completely to almost completely
clear to the naked eye (eye clean) when viewed from the
top. Fairly easy to find imperfections with 10x magnification.
SI diamonds are “Slightly included”.
I1, I2, I3: Borderline “eye clean” too fairly
easy to find imperfections with the naked eye. Very easy
to find imperfections with 10x magnification. I1 through
I3 diamonds are “Included”. .
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